A PHOENIX RISES: FAVRE LEUBA
May 29, 2026
In the quiet Swiss town of Grenchen, a phoenix has risen from the ashes. Favre Leuba, once the titan of Swiss watchmaking, is stirring back to life with a collection that’s equal parts homage and revolution. The Favre Leuba Chief collection, spearheading this resurrection, isn’t just a new line of watches—it’s a statement of intent, a bridge between the brand’s storied past and its ambitious future.
A TALE OF TWO CHIEFS
The Chief collection arrives as a duo: the Chief Chronograph and the Chief Date. Both share a design language that speaks in the bold, geometric style of the 1970s, yet with an accent that’s unmistakably modern.
FAVRE LEUBA CHIEF CHRONOGRAPH: A STUDY IN CONTRASTS
The Chief Chronograph, at 41mm, commands attention on the wrist. Its cushion case, a nod to the era that inspired it, presents a distinctive silhouette. The case design combines brushed and polished surfaces, creating an interplay of light and shadow that enhances its visual appeal. The dial is where the Chief Chronograph truly shines—literally. Available in blue, ice blue, or black, its sunburst finish plays with light in captivating ways. The bi-compax layout, with sub-dials at three and nine o’clock, maintains balance and readability. A tachymeter scale on the inner flange adds functionality without cluttering the overall design. Applied indices and hands, featuring brushed and sandblasted finishes, add depth and texture. They’re filled with Super-LumiNova, ensuring that time-telling doesn’t stop when the lights go down.
MORE THAN JUST A COMEBACK
The Chief collection strikes a balance between revival and reinvention. These aren’t mere reissues of vintage models, nor are they completely divorced from Favre Leuba’s heritage. Instead, they occupy that sweet spot where past and present converge, creating something that feels both familiar and fresh. This balance is evident in the technical specifications as well. Both watches boast modern amenities like scratch-resistant sapphire crystals and impressive water resistance of 100m for both models. These features ensure that the Chief collection is not just about looks, but also about practical, everyday wearability.
It’s worth noting that Favre Leuba’s history stretches back to 1737, making it one of the oldest Swiss watch brands. The company has a rich legacy of innovation, including the creation of the world’s first mechanical wristwatch equipped with an aneroid barometer in 1962. This heritage of pushing boundaries seems to mould the Chief collection, which manages to honour tradition while embracing contemporary watchmaking techniques.
